Posts Tagged ‘recipes’

Chattanooga, Tennessee Bagels?

Posted: November 14, 2024 in Uncategorized
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I’m always intrigued if I get a rare chance to visit a town or city I’ve never been to. This week I had my first chance to visit Chattanooga, Tennessee. It’s a delightful spot on earth with friendly people and the Tennessee River quietly meandering through on its way to the Gulf makes it sublime.

Of course, the first order of business is to scout out the local bagel shops. Well … not many to speak of in the traditional sense and you can be sure I visited all candidates. But in an act of desperation I went to a bakery on my list and …. I surprisingly found a gem!

Niedlov’s Cafe and Bakery is not a Bagel Shop per se, but they do make their own bagels that I found surprising and delicious. But first, to the bakery part. Because it’s not a bagel shop, the bagels are relegated to a few baskets in the corner display.

Needless to say, my expectations were very low.

But in the same case was this delectable creation:

A lemon “cruffin” to-die-for, stuffed with a handmade lemon curd and the whole buttery creation melted in my hands and mouth and made quite the mess on the table and my lap and oh.my.goodness. I’d eat this every single day and each one should be a mandatory birthday present.

Sigh. OK, back to bagels. As usual I ordered one of everything, straight-up, not toasted, plain cream cheese. Disappointingly, this is how they served my bagels:

Sliced horizontally only with a little tub of cream cheese?! I tried not to be insulted, a took a deep breath, silently wondering why they couldn’t give me my schmear and slice it in half and wrap it up in bakery paper like it should be and all that, but I let it go. It’s fine. They did give me a knife. Oddly they questioned me several times whether I wanted it toasted (what?) with my response only a question (the bagels are fresh, right?), but I let that go, too. It is Chattanooga I explained to myself. But, my expectations were in the Tennessee River and headed for the Gulf.

The plain bagel was blistered, the color wasn’t right, and the crumb looked a little over proofed:

But the smell was right there, the skin had a nice thin crunch, and the chewiness was what the world looks for. The taste was amazingly complex, I didn’t detect weird sweeteners or heavy malt (clearly not, look at the color). It was chewy and moist, not dense. The size was just right. Not too big or small. I truly enjoyed this plain bagel! Well done!

But the star of the show was this everything bagel:

What sort of God’s creation is this? Generous seasoning both top and bottom. Your traditional everything seasoning but .. oh my, the aroma says there is something else! I was confused, perhaps my eyesight is worse than I thought. I closely scrutinized, trying to separate out the poppy, sesame, onion flake …. What’s that? I’m not sure but I will give my guess: fennel. Only a small amount. It doesn’t belong here for sure. My brain went into auto reset mode. If my lovely wife was here she’d know for sure. What in the hell is this? The smell however told my brain to STFU and try it. It permeated my senses. My mouth was watering. The aroma was overpowering. What wizardry is going on here?

The same thin crunch on the skin, the same chewiness and moisture. All the same as the plain. But the seasoning. At first I didn’t like it. My brain said throw it out and walk away. But I couldn’t. That fennel addition made me question everything I’ve ever known. It made me stop and appreciate differences. We shouldn’t just accept Brooklyn as the standard. Let’s open the mind for new takes, new twists.

I found something in Chattanooga that has fundamentally changed everything I know about bagels. Chattanooga. God is great, bagels are good, and people are crazy. No one visits Chattanooga but if you’re lucky enough to do so, don’t miss Niedlov’s for the best bagel … and bakery … in town.


Weirddoughs Bagels

Posted: July 19, 2024 in Breads and Treats, Uncategorized
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Warrenton, Virginia

A relatively new bagel shop opened in Warrenton, Virginia!  There is nothing weird about Weirddoughs Bagels and they have now taken over my list as the top bagel shop in our tri-county area (Culpepper, Fauquier and Rappahannock Counties) with an overall rating of 8.4, a well-earned rating that, but for a few minor criticisms, could have been a solid 8.6.

Having moved out of their previous digs on the other side of town (that was very unattractive and inhospitable so I refused to go), they now occupy an adorable little shop on Culpeper Street.  The venue is well-done with both indoor and outdoor seating and is certainly a great place to hang out for a bagel and coffee in the morning.

They make traditional “New York style” bagels, clearly hand-rolled, properly risen, boiled and baked fresh each morning.  As typical, I arrived mid-morning and ordered one each of their everything, onion, asiago and plain bagels, not toasted, with plain cream cheese.

There was a longer-than-expected wait for the bagels in the modestly busy shop but I didn’t let that bug me.  The friendly staff brought it out from the back and politely handed me my order.  The bagels were unusually wrapped in a large wrapping but, once opened, demonstrated a properly cut bagel with a generous smear.  All is as it should be.

The color and texture were sublime, with a nice malty yeasty yummy aroma that spiked my taste buds and expectations even before my first bite.  The bagels are a respectable size – neither too small nor large.

The seasonings on the onion and everything bagels were a bit stingy, but nicely included on both sides of the bagels.

The onion bagel:

The cheese on the asiago on the other hand was generous and even melted through the discernible hole to pool on the bottom in a good way.  

The plain bagel had nice color and texture.

Each of the bagels were properly dense as should be expected.  The thin crunchy skin on the outside was in good shape and not too thin.  The favor profile was superb, with a nice tang.  Their processes are not readily observable because the kitchen is buried behind walls (sadly there was no steaming kettle of water visible) but I venture to guess these bagels begin life with a starter sponge, are made with good high-quality high-gluten flour (14%) and diastatic malt syrup, are hand rolled and allowed to rise in a cool long environment before boiling in water alkalized with baking soda. 

There was a nice pull to the bite – not overly tough. The crumb was slightly dense and moist, indicating to me that they were either under-baked (by about 1 minute) or not allowed to rise sufficiently.  Bagels should be baked at a proper 500ºF for approx. 7 minutes, then rotated and finished at 450 ºF for another 7 to 8 minutes. For the rise, the float test should always be used prior to going all-in.

Overall I truly enjoyed these bagels and am very happy Warrenton has a new shop to celebrate.  I will certainly return and encourage everyone to give them a visit!

Bagels for Sandwiches?

Posted: July 13, 2024 in Breads and Treats, Uncategorized
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I’m astounded by the number of bagel shops that produce a product so far off the standard.  These bagels are more akin to rolls.  I recently surveyed some bagel shops in Ohio and found a uniform consistency of terrible.  Tasteless, no texture, light and airy, and utterly unremarkable.


There is only one bagel shop in Ohio that is rumored to make a competent bagel (Nubeigel) but, alas, it was closed for a Jewish holiday when I got there (a common problem I’ve run into – I need to closely track Jewish holidays before making bagel runs!)

I’ve come to realize that many of these bagel shops are not in the business of selling bagels – they are selling sandwiches.  I get the economics but I won’t allow that as an excuse.  So, I looked into this idea of making a bagel that is more preferable for sandwiches.  If you’ve ever taken a truly classic “NY style” bagel, sliced it and loaded up your sandwich, it doesn’t really go well.  The density and chewiness can really make the eating difficult, and the contents of your sandwich end up unceremoniously in your lap.

One of my favorite companies, King Arthur Baking Company, has to my great consternation published a recipe for bagels better suited to sandwiches.  I’m starting to question the company’s sanity.  Their idea of “Ultimate Sandwich Bagels” makes a few adjustments, such as using standard bread flower to reduce chewiness (less gluten).  The company tries to keep the flavor profile by using a starter (always correct) as well as malt syrup in both the water and the dough (adds too much sweetness in my opinion – use the powder in the dough instead).  They also unconventionally recommend an egg wash to help the toppings stick (there is no need for this at all – the bagel is steaming hot with wet starchy water when you pull it out of the pot – basically Elmer’s glue).

This whole terrible idea only compounds the common problems I find in so-called bagel shops across the country.  Inferior ingredients (crappy flour, malt distribution) and improper techniques (quick rises to save time or worse, poking a hole through a ball of dough instead of rolling it up correctly, or make it today to sell tomorrow) make for bad bagels.  Other shops think they are different and unique in a good way by adding unconventional flours and techniques, but it doesn’t make it good, it only makes them look incompetent.  

I did enjoy a wood-fired bagel out of Portland, Maine a couple weeks ago that was very well done. Forage creates a good bagel in a unique way but using high quality ingredients and traditional craftsmanship. I highly recommend!

Closer to home, I’ve already covered Walker Bakeshop in Sperryville, Virginia, which I highly recommend and scored their bagels an 8.2 out of 10 (the owners were reportedly unhappy with my rating). Just down the street is a cool cafe-style restaurant called Off the Grid in Sperryville, Virginia. They make their own bagels as well and some excellent bagel sandwiches. Overall I found their bagel well done. Good texture and crumb. Great aroma. The everything seasoning was generously applied but mostly sesame – both toasted and straight – and poppy (I couldn’t detect anything else). Not bad at all and I’ll give it a 7.8 out of 10.

If you’re headed this way, be sure to stop there for lunch and check out some of the other cool shops in town.

Next week a relatively new bagel shop is opening in Warrenton, Virginia, called Weirddoughs Bagels. I promised the owner I’d visit and do a review and I’m hoping they don’t dislike me afterwards. The name of the shop has me a bit apprehensive and skeptical – what’s “weird” about their dough? Oh please don’t be unconventional and unique in a bad way!

Virginia Cheesesteaks?

Posted: June 5, 2024 in Uncategorized
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This is my buddy Patrick.

Well, Patrick has many talents, including making authentic cheesesteaks. He learned it from a grill job as a young man in New Jersey. I gotta say, the end result is Devine and the taste just seems, well, far better than the individual parts.

I’ve tried dozens of cheesesteaks while visiting Philadelphia and none can top this one. Patrick invited me over to lunch to show me his art. How could I refuse?

First, he sautéed mushrooms, red onions, and green peppers in oil over medium high heat in a large cast iron skillet until soft and yummy. When done he removed and set aside.

Next he added the chicken flat steaks. Salt, pepper and some Italian seasoning.

When almost done, he thoroughly chopped it up in the skillet.

He added back in the onion, pepper, mushroom blend and thoroughly combined. He noted that you want to let all the excess liquid simmer off or it will make your bread soggy.

He pulled out authentic Amorosa buns and set them to toast.

He then layered amazing and melty cooper sharp white cheese all over the mixture and let it melt into a gooey concoction of wonderful. This cheese can be found in your normal supermarket and is like an American cheese only better, with a deeper flavor and a sort of tangy vibe that is quite different. He notes you could use provolone but, if so, go with aged Piccante.

He retrieved the toasted buns, layered with mayo, chile sauce and fresh tomato.

He put it all together and offered me my plate. With a stack of napkins and a fork of course.

Truly an amazing sandwich and not to be approached lightly. It’s great to have friends, and even greater to have a friend that knows how to make the most amazing cheesesteak to be found anywhere.

Walker Bakeshop Sperryville, Virginia

Posted: May 26, 2024 in Uncategorized
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Well, well, well. A new bakery opened up in my neighborhood. It so happens to make … bagels.

Needless to say I was very cautious and had zero expectations. Between Culpepper, Fauquier and Rappahannock counties in Virginia there are very little to no baked goods to talk about and certainly no bagels worth writing about.

Walker Bakeshop is owned and operated by Doug and Dori Walker. It appears Doug is a southern boy yet he attended the King Arthur baking school. Great for fundamentals and one of my favorite companies so my expectations rose slightly. Dori is an award-winning baker with deep family baking traditions fermenting in her blood.

We walked in late Saturday morning. I tried to hide behind my lovely wife Bonnie while I scoped the place out to decide whether I should head for the door. Clean and cute, the display case had freshly-made pastries, from espresso crispy, whisky and rye, and oatmeal cookies, morning glory muffins, and …. a babka muffin (!!) next to chocolate rugala. Fresh baked and steaming hot loafs of bread and fresh scones completed the mix and I was intrigued enough to stay put.

I spied the bagels in the back – no steaming kettle of water but this isn’t a bagel shop, it’s a bakery. This is clearly small-batch. I mean, seriously, Doug was in the back pulling loafs and Dori had the register. Not something they need to do but clearly something they want.

So Bonnie running front asks about bagels (which I’ve already spied out) and I tried to wave her and Dori off letting them know up front that I can’t be satisfied so let’s just leave it there. I’d love a babka muffin, please.

Dori was having none of it and literally challenged me to try her bagels. Her forward leaning stance and piercing stare convinced me, after a quick glance at Doug, to accept her challenge. Gulp.

OK so I ordered one of each: Plain, poppy, everything, and sesame. To go. Dori admitted she made them last night so …. sigh, I lightly toasted it when I got home.

Nicely baked, but a little stingy on the seasonings with none on the bottom.

Sliced it open to find a nice crumb, aroma very good.

Put on a generous schmear, closed it up and sliced it in half, all as it should be.

The bagel felt light in the hand and a little soft when squeezed, indicating a lack of tension and density one could expect from a properly hand-rolled bagel.

The size of the bagel was just right, center hole almost completely closed up but discernible. The color was fine, perhaps a tad more malt syrup to the water would help.

The skin was thin with a nice crunch. I’d probably have boiled for 30 seconds more but nothing to complain about.

The taste was a nice balance of salt, yeast, diastatic malt powder and a good, high-quality flour. There was no bitterness and a very nice flavor profile, even for a bagel made last night (I’d love to taste the same bagel made in the morning after a cool rise overnight in the refrigerator).

Overall a respectable bagel made with care by a competent baker. I’ll give it a 8.2 out of 10 and I will certainly visit regularly for more! Highly recommend this place as a stopping point.

Bagels in …. Virginia?

Posted: May 11, 2024 in Uncategorized
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Bagel Heaven. After a few years of visiting nearly every bagel shop in Virginia, DC and Maryland, I’ve finally found a local bagel that I call good. I no longer have to have expensive deliveries from NYC.

Now bagels are a personal thing, of course. Trusted reviewers I’ve followed have led me down the primrose path to utterly awful bagels they called the best. I actually discarded 2 dozen bagels I brought home from Norfolk as complete garbage.

Some reviewers like a bagel shop because they make great bagel sandwiches. That’s not my test. The chance I give to every bagel shop is an un-toasted, freshly hand made, plain or onion bagel with cream cheese. If you want to get all fancy and stuff you can indulge in a chive cream cheese. Nothing more.

From there I want to see color, texture, chewiness, crumb, smell and, of course, taste.

So the winner is …. Bethesda Bagels. This family-owned local business has been in our area for the past 40 years yet until this week I haven’t visited any of their now 5 locations since I arrived in this area in 1995.

Following my usual practice, I dropped in mid morning at the convenient Arlington location. I ordered a plain bagel with cream cheese and I sat on the stool by the window and carefully unwrapped my prize. It was very good. I have had a better bagel from various great spots in Connecticut, New York, and Jersey, but not by much. This as good as it gets in our area and I’m so thankful I can finally end my search for a good local bagel shop.

So, I ordered a dozen to go from the very friendly staff there. Cost me about $2 each, well worth every penny. Got those babies home and prepared most for the freezer only to see that they gave me a few extra bagels on top of the dozen I paid for. I can’t wait to make the trip to Arlington again as soon as this batch runs low and the passenger seat is available for my friends of course.

BTW, the Virginia-based runner up is Bodo’s Bagels in Charlottesville. The place is extremely popular for a good reason and the cool family-friendly vibe helps their bagel taste better somehow. I’d probably add a bit more malt syrup as well as some diastatic malt powder, hand roll them a little larger with an overnight cool rise to make them better but I think their huge popularity probably forces them to skip some of those steps and costs. But you should give them a try.