I’m astounded by the number of bagel shops that produce a product so far off the standard. These bagels are more akin to rolls. I recently surveyed some bagel shops in Ohio and found a uniform consistency of terrible. Tasteless, no texture, light and airy, and utterly unremarkable.
There is only one bagel shop in Ohio that is rumored to make a competent bagel (Nubeigel) but, alas, it was closed for a Jewish holiday when I got there (a common problem I’ve run into – I need to closely track Jewish holidays before making bagel runs!)
I’ve come to realize that many of these bagel shops are not in the business of selling bagels – they are selling sandwiches. I get the economics but I won’t allow that as an excuse. So, I looked into this idea of making a bagel that is more preferable for sandwiches. If you’ve ever taken a truly classic “NY style” bagel, sliced it and loaded up your sandwich, it doesn’t really go well. The density and chewiness can really make the eating difficult, and the contents of your sandwich end up unceremoniously in your lap.
One of my favorite companies, King Arthur Baking Company, has to my great consternation published a recipe for bagels better suited to sandwiches. I’m starting to question the company’s sanity. Their idea of “Ultimate Sandwich Bagels” makes a few adjustments, such as using standard bread flower to reduce chewiness (less gluten). The company tries to keep the flavor profile by using a starter (always correct) as well as malt syrup in both the water and the dough (adds too much sweetness in my opinion – use the powder in the dough instead). They also unconventionally recommend an egg wash to help the toppings stick (there is no need for this at all – the bagel is steaming hot with wet starchy water when you pull it out of the pot – basically Elmer’s glue).
This whole terrible idea only compounds the common problems I find in so-called bagel shops across the country. Inferior ingredients (crappy flour, malt distribution) and improper techniques (quick rises to save time or worse, poking a hole through a ball of dough instead of rolling it up correctly, or make it today to sell tomorrow) make for bad bagels. Other shops think they are different and unique in a good way by adding unconventional flours and techniques, but it doesn’t make it good, it only makes them look incompetent.
I did enjoy a wood-fired bagel out of Portland, Maine a couple weeks ago that was very well done. Forage creates a good bagel in a unique way but using high quality ingredients and traditional craftsmanship. I highly recommend!
Closer to home, I’ve already covered Walker Bakeshop in Sperryville, Virginia, which I highly recommend and scored their bagels an 8.2 out of 10 (the owners were reportedly unhappy with my rating). Just down the street is a cool cafe-style restaurant called Off the Grid in Sperryville, Virginia. They make their own bagels as well and some excellent bagel sandwiches. Overall I found their bagel well done. Good texture and crumb. Great aroma. The everything seasoning was generously applied but mostly sesame – both toasted and straight – and poppy (I couldn’t detect anything else). Not bad at all and I’ll give it a 7.8 out of 10.
If you’re headed this way, be sure to stop there for lunch and check out some of the other cool shops in town.
Next week a relatively new bagel shop is opening in Warrenton, Virginia, called Weirddoughs Bagels. I promised the owner I’d visit and do a review and I’m hoping they don’t dislike me afterwards. The name of the shop has me a bit apprehensive and skeptical – what’s “weird” about their dough? Oh please don’t be unconventional and unique in a bad way!
The Baker's Dad 